The Quest for the Perfect Waffle is a rite of passage for anyone who visits Brussels. In this post I'll tell you how I found my waffle and some other good food along the way while still enjoying the sights of Brussels (even in the rain).
Song of the Week: If It Ain't Broke by Sonny Cleveland
Finding the Perfect Waffle is no easy task. In Brussels, there are hundreds of waffle shops to choose from, and several kinds of waffles at each of those shops. Everyone's Perfect Waffle is different, and sometimes you don't even know what your Perfect Waffle is until it's staring you in the face. I found my waffle at a shop on one of the main squares, and let me tell you, there's nothing quite like taking the first bite of your Perfect Waffle. It's a sensory experience, and by sensory, I mean overwhelmingly sweet. I prefer the dense, pearl sugar Liege waffle to the light, crispy Belgian one, but the strawberries, whipped cream and Nutella are what really make the waffle. There are all sorts of toppings you can get on the waffle, but these three are the ones that perfectly complement the flavor of the waffle without overpowering it. It's very easy to over-stuff your waffle, and the best philosophy in this case is "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
Brussels is a city of binary opposites: rich and poor, ancient and modern, business and pleasure. Last Wednesday, my Economics class took a full-day field trip to one of the poorer neighborhoods in Brussels with the purpose of examining the drivers of inequality in the city. The neighborhood we visited did not appear impoverished at first glance, but the indicators of poverty are much different in Brussels, and for most of Europe, than in the US. For one thing, the number of people living under a single roof is much higher than in the States. While there are not many houses that contain more than 10 people in the US, it is common to find houses that contain 20 people or more, with one or two families living on each floor of a three or four story building. Other common factors of poverty in Brussels include lack of education and access to resources and jobs that could encourage mobility. The visit to the neighborhood was in stark contrast to our visit at the European Commission later that afternoon.
The Commission (under the EU) employs over 30,000 employees from the 28 member countries who work in various sectors to ensure that the operation runs smoothly. We received very official name tags that marked us as visitors and sat through a two hour presentation on the many missions and responsibilities of the Commission. At that point in the day, I was battling a cold and only remember the first 15 minutes of the presentation. From my sickly haze, I got that the Commission's job is to keep multinational companies from exploiting the countries in which they operate, and tells member countries what they're doing wrong in terms of humanitarian issues. I'm sure they do more that that, but by the time the presentation ended it was all I could do to stay awake.
Going back to Brussels on the weekend was a completely different experience than from the field trip earlier in the week. I stayed with my friend Leanne and her cousin, who was kind enough to show us her favorite spots around the city. On our whirlwind tour, we were able to see the Grand Palace, the Town Square, several churches, bookstores and markets around the city. The people of Brussels seemed less quirky than the people of Paris, and less good humored than the people of Killarney. They were still very polite, but they seemed more focused on their goals and trying to make their way in the world. It's possible that this is due to the fact that Brussels is one of the most diverse cities in Europe, as well as one of Europe's centers of commerce. The European Commission adds to this diversity of course, but many Moroccan and Turkish immigrants also settle within the city, allowing for a unique blend of people. While Paris is not pedestrian friendly, Brussels is easy to navigate if you're walking. The metro is not quite as ubiquitous as it is in Paris, but you need it much less. There are also many more grab and go food stands, which is encouraging when you want to eat a lot of food in a short amount of time (and that's exactly what I did). From the fries to the waffles to the chocolate, Belgian food is unquestionably delicious, and it's hard to go wrong with any of the options you find here. I updated the Good Eats page with the full suite of food I ate while in Brussels, so check it out if you want to see Belgian food in all its glory!
"There’s something about arriving in new cities, wandering empty streets with no destination. I will never lose the love for the arriving, but I'm born to leave." -- Charlotte Eriksson
After the hustle and bustle of Brussels, it was nice to spend a day in northern Luxembourg. The town of Echternacht, near the German border, boasts some wonderful hiking trails and even better cider. In the morning, we took 2.5 mile hike through the valley and I got to see some wonderful geological features. Apparently the geology in Luxembourg is very similar to Ohio, because I saw a lot of sandstone and features that indicated the area had once been a shallow sea. As much as I enjoyed the geology, I enjoyed the traditional Luxembourgish meal waiting for me at the end even more. They served us dumplings in white sauce with ham, and for desert, I ordered a solid block of chocolate (but they gave me steamed milk to turn it into hot cocoa). Afterwards, we hopped a bus to the next town over, the village of Born, and had the privilege of going on a tour and a tasting of their cidery. Luxembourg cider used to be an important tradition, but it slowly died out as the many apple orchards declined over the years. Recently, a group of friends decided to bring back this tradition, and thus Ramborn cider was born in Born (I think you get the connection). The cider is actually quite good, and as such has gained a significant following since its launch in 2013.
This weekend I'm taking a break from the travel frenzy and staying in Luxembourg. I plan on hiking and exploring the town a little more, and on Sunday I'm going to an American folk concert in the next town over. There's also a steampunk festival going on, so I might hop down and check that out too.
Any suggestions for what I should do on my weekend off? What else do you want to know about Brussels? Let me know in the comments!
Until next time, I'll keep wandering.
Thanks for your comments! To answer the question above, steampunk is type of genre that includes elements of Victorian society and the Industrial Revolution. There's lot of focus on steam-powered machinery, and the concept that time has progressed without the invention of electricity. The festival in the town will showcase a lot of costumes and artwork related to this concept!
It took me a while to figure out how to leave a comment. Just like my students I wasn't scrolling down far enough. I enjoyed reading this and the previous entries and seeing the great photos. I am reminded that travel is the best teacher. The Little Boy statue in Brussels was--well a bit small. When I was there, I had could not decide on which waffle place looked the best, so I applaud you on finding such a great looking waffle. The main Grote Markt/Square looked so iconic and beautiful at night there all lit up. Hope you got to see that too. Oh I was impressed with your discussion of "binary oppositions." Continued productive happy travels to you!
Talk about living vicariously through our children...I'm doin' it! The only thing better would be being there! I enjoy the insights you are sharing.
Leave it to my daughter, just waffling around Brussels. I hope the cold has subsided. We hear so much about the EU here in the states, glad you got to go in person. Now back to the food all that grab and go has to be awesome, I want a waffle just like the one in the picture. Glad you are getting your feel of hiking and walking is the best way to see the sights. Love the quote by Charlotte Eriksson. Make sure you keep your battery charged. Question: What is a Steampunk Festival? Love Dad.
Reading about your Perfect Waffle - looks SO good.